What you originally wanted to do would involve tapping into the central locking system and I would suggest that requires a lot of specialist knowledge. You should have 12v between it and positive. I am presuming I know its dodgy to do so that if the module doesnt think the windows are fitted that I wont get any comms with the door control modules. I've got central locking activated by the key, but the area above the mirror switches where the manual shows the locking buttons is a blank and pushing the button down on each door just locks that door. Leaving front two locked This is what I have lurking behind the hardboard. When you insert your key back in and turn to the start position does your car start? So this is a plea for info from anyone who takes their drivers door card off, could you poss look and see what coloured wires plug into the central locking switch? When I picked the van up I have a vague recollection it was 2. Went to take the seat off the base but after undoing the front nuts, I realised I don't have the correct size bit to undo the bolts holding the back part of the seat on circular head with loads of grooves.
Hi Loz, The van is going in to the centre next week to have the wiring checked and they are going to try to recreate the problem. When I press the key fob I hear the locking system trying to engage. Seems these lock units have a limited life built into them! It is a normal function for the central locking to automatically re-lock the doors if you blip it open but don't open a door. I normally have to manually unlock it by pulling the handle from the inside or lock by pushing the pin down. In 046 block codes it says windows not installed. I thought it would be a pain to remove but think I will start there. It is noticable from inside as well I will be stripping it soon, just wandered if the lock mech can be stripped or whether it is a sealed unit.
The way around it was to hold the inside handle whilst pressing open in the key fob and it worked, almost as though something inside the lock handn't engaged. Get the history on it first to make sure it hasn't had a scan jockey messing. I'll figure out if the wiring corrosion problem is at fault as soon as I get the chance. Now leave them out for at least 30 mins so any capacitors can discharge properly. Have a search around for some good lock threads here.
Hi Chris Sorry for the delay in replying. Keep locking and unlocking the door, then it made a kluck and it released. Posted on Mar 08, 2013 Many thanks for your help on this one i also had the same problem on my 2007 T5 if it hadn't been for you guys i would have been at a loose end with this one. The problem I am having is that the central locking is activating when I put the keys in the ignition. Although to be honest I may just take out the seat and check the wiring as tat should hopefully be a relatively straight forward job. The lock isn't much fun to remove.
Another T5 central locking problem sorted ;- Exactly as you explained it, thats been doing my head in for a long time. Many thanks Mark Posted on Dec 08, 2011 Brilliant! Let me know if you come up with something else. My tip is to first take the seat out then you can get to it very easy and make the reapir look better. All kits are now supplied with either a fully integrated Alarm System, with both Shock and Ultrasonic Sensors, or if preferred you can buy the Keyless Remote Control model. It was designed that way apparently. All took a bit more time but with seat right forward and the rear plastic trim unclipped from the seat base , there's just enough room to do the job. Almost like a grinding noise.
If I can find that then maybe I could splice into the loom somewhere. Many thanks kevin from Whitstable kent. The challenge is to try and prove one way or the other if the door switch is the cause. How about when you remove the key now? Without carrying out the grounding of that wire you'll find your van will only lock once and will not dead lock it's self when you lock it. There should be a triangular panel. I've just put a tailgate on mine T5. One in series to act as an isolator, and one in parallel to replicate the door switch.
Use some kitchen roll wrapped in tape as a makeshift pad and tape to the inner door as a temp measure to engage the door switch. If your van is already fitted with central locking from us, you can buy an Alarm System only with simple instructions that show how to connect the alarm to the central locks. Hi Pauly I have converted my van from barn doors to tailgate, fairly easy but there's quite a lot of loom that isn't present. Other times it will either open and not lock or vice versa. I'm sure that isn't right?? This could be a faulty door switch on any door including the boot, or there could be a dent in the inner door panel of any of the doors, usualy the rear doors due to the seat belt not retracting properly. I had to dis battery to get them off and not press key fob else this would repeat, so I was on manual locking. Be aware while the fuse is removed all central locking is disabled, so the other doors are open.
This happened again later that week but this time I had the key fob in my pocket so no more broken windows. I was edging towards the lock itself just by the way it is making a noise. If it was me I'd take the door trim off and try a good lubing plus watching and working the lock before removing it. I've got the same issue. The problem is that the internal release cannot be used if you have already locked the van using central locking because you'll just set the alarm off. We had to break a glass to get inside for the keys.
Convenience opening will only work if it is coded for it. I'm thinking it would be easier to splice this in to the main loom than trying to add bits to my existing one. Mar 23, 2013 Toyota Corolla Verso - Central locking has just stopped responding So you don't waste your time, here are some assumptions: - 1. So I can get out it from the inside and nope plan is to have bed up front. The mechanic sent by the European Breakdown cover broke the passenger window to get in the vehicle.
My tip is to first take the seat out then you can get to it very easy and make the reapir look better. If you're converting to a camper why would you need to open the tailgate from the inside? I'm taping it up with amalgamating tape, hopefully that will keep it dry. Pull the panel off to reveal a small set of fuses see the back of the panel for the fuse map. I wanted them to check the cent lock system. Just want to know if it can be taken apart without random bits of metal and springs exploding around the room.