The battery leads, coil wires, and ammeter gauge leads have been swapped, I need to speak with the owner about putting a shunt across the ammeter. Can anyone speculate on the purpose of the switch? The other switch will close only when reverse is selected, so obviously you don't want it wired to your overdrive. Red wires feed the runnings lights and are hot typically not fused! Due to the large number of spammers we get who always use auto-fill on forms , we must approve all new registrations before you can post. I am an aircraft mechanic and I have a decent grasp of electrical systems on older vehicles so I think I should be able to figure it out with the proper tools. By Mike McPhail Gulf Coast Austin-Healey Club Hill Country Triumph Club You can right-click the following images, open them in a new window and enlarge them.
Personally I prefer the Autosparks ones as they are using the original format of the Lucas loom. I have attached a diagram I drew of how my car is wired. But it's kind of a hassle to add the 2nd gear switch, so maybe leaving it out is best at this point. There are a few variations on the overdrive wiring depending on serial number, but in the end they all do the same thing - power source, solenoid, relay and a switch. Actually, the majority of the bundle stays in the car under the dash. They changed the wire routing in several location with each. He put another line on it, I pulled the distributor off and turned the oil pump, we got oil out of the line pretty quickly.
It doesn't really matter if the operating switch is wired on the 'hot' side of the relay coil as in your diagram and the one I linked to , or between the coil and the isolator switches as Bruce's diagram shows. When you do it, it will all become clear and you will wonder why you even worried about it. But then, there is Lucas…the Prince of Darkness. This man is singularly famous for turning electrical science into a black art. Does adding the alternator to the mix change anything with the polarity conversion? Thank you for the quick reply. I did order the correct wiring harness for the commission number but, although it may be correct, I am very dense when it comes to wiring. Thanks a million, Now for Thanksgiving and Happy Turkey Day to you.
Worth every penny, I think. A few other challenges are: It now has an alternator, the owner says it was installed according to the sellers instructions but the conversion to negative earth ground has not been done to it yet. Learning the basic color code will make things easier: Black wires are earth aka ground and connect one side of the battery and all electrical components to the car chassis. There are two sets of wires leading from the power block; one leads to under the hood and the other to under the dash. Another wire ran from the ammeter, through the sleeve, to one of the relay contacts.
Triumph Tr3 Wiring Diagram Wiring Diagrams img source : alladim. The solenoid actually has two windings inside, and a pair of contacts that open and reduce the current once the solenoid has moved completely. Trace each circuit in a different colour and you will figure out the harness is no time flat. Again, I appreciate your assistance and look forward to reading more replies. Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild In reply to by Sub-arctic I had him remove the banjo fitting expecting that it should be attached with a drilled bolt.
Also, at some time a switch has been installed in an ammeter lead near the ammeter. See, it is all very simple! All of the wiring colors were faded to a uniform brown, so I can't comment on what colors the factory used. For me it was less then an evening's worth of work all total. Jim, in your diagram you show wires to the dimmer switch as 'U' or 'V', is that violet? Between the holes in the fire wall and the little metal tabs that hold the wires as they run along things, there was only one way to put the harness. It reduces the number of wires slightly. I have done a little poking around the internet but I am short on time these days so I would like to expedite things if possible.
The factory apparently used several slightly different circuits. The owner did hook up the starter and solenoid to crank the engine, which reminds me of another question. If your car has been converted to negative ground, the white stripe goes towards the relay terminal. If it doesn't want to back up and you aren't actually backing over a curb or out of a hole ; it's best to stop and see if you can solve the problem. The solenoid actually has two windings inside, and a pair of contacts that open and reduce the current once the solenoid has moved completely. Your diagram looks good to me; but I'll throw in one more thing.
In effect converting the ammeter to 60-0-60 instead of 30-0-30. Red with white stripe wires are the same as red, only with a fuse and feed the dash lights. Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild Jim, Thank you for the help. Here are the differences I found: - the diagram shows a green wire from the upper right terminal of the lighting switch to the fuse block. Connect the diode from the load terminal on the relay 87 in your diagram to ground, being sure to match the diode polarity to be opposite of your batter polarity.
For instance, a purple wire with a stripe going to the horn lets you know that this circuit is fed by a fused wire that is always hot. There shouldn't be a need for a switch, but people sometimes have odd solutions to various problems. Which one should not be wired and what are the consequences of not wiring the other? I wouldn't be surprised if the switch has something to do with it being damaged in some way by being connected wrong. First one worked fine for many years, but was hard to change the belt had to completely dismount the alternator, put the belt on, then put the bolts back in with the belt in place. The Power Block is mounted under the dash behind the glove box inside the car. I ordered a reconditioned one with overdrive from an East Coast company.