I have never needed to replace a crankshaft on a car but I have had to get a new starter motor fitted. The bell housing bottom bolt was like yours right against an engine support beam. I could not say without seeing it. You usually end up having to invent some way of doing things. I have never needed to replace a crankshaft on a car but I have had to get a new starter motor fitted.
I completely take your point about worrying myself to an early grave but I am slowly getting used to this boat which I bought last May and have only just spotted this potential problem. As for cutting an access hatch, unfortunately this would have to be in the side or bottom of the boat to be useful!! I would like to plan ahead but I am inexperienced with diesel engines and have difficulty thinking about it in the absence of a better understanding of the possibilities. I used to be able to lift my engine about 1 foot. I think that your new gauge and sender are not matched to each other. I used to do this with Mk2 Jaguars.
My setup is Beta 38, Paragon P20 Transmission and Walter Vee drive. Use a mechanical gauge to varify your readings. I think my pdf copy of the manual is pretty much the same as Bigste posted above. You should be able to find a hose from a grease gun with the correct threads that will work for connecting the T piece to the block. That they say will correct the problem. So I cut a removable hatch under the back seat. I can email the standard manaul if you like? With the engine in forward and tied to the dock.
Bigste, Sorry, I've got that but thanks. . I bet Rover garges used to do that. Adrian at Beta Gloucester can be very helpful. Highly Reliable Engine - Based on Kubota's original sturdy design, the engine promises great reliability and long service life. Check which transmission and alternator configuration you are specifying. Click here to download the if you don't already have it.
This would have to be thought out carefully as you point out — at present I am trying somewhat unsuccessfully to gather the information to do. There is no second oil pressure port so you will have to use a T piece and make sure that it is properly grounded to the engine. !! As a result, the noise level is 1. Whether you get enough clearance or not. Like you have said about removing exhaust. The thing that you thought would simply come apart.
The front the engine is not lifting. Captain Fizz, Alas its not a hydraulic drive wish it was instead there are 3 separate python drives to the final shaft. ? This didn't entail disconecting exhaust. Edited February 21, 2014 by Bobbybass. ? Thank you for the offer of a copy of the exploded diagram - I would be grateful for this. My problem is that there is absolutely no access from the right hand side or the front and very limited access from above or the rear. I have never seen a 'Haynes type' manual.
So far the install is progressing well. You may have to remove one of the mounts completely. I always thought about it and planned it first. With engine warm, it is showing 20-22 psi at fast idle and 40-42 at 2000 rpms, does not change much at higher revs. The Water temp sender location is easy to fit but the 2nd Oil Pressure port is not as obvious.
. Hope everyone has a good Holiday. ? Cool Water from Hot Water Tank 1. I would rather move the partitions - annoying but cheap labour my own than pay expensive labour to have the engine lifted. I am worried that if the starter fails, I will end up speaking to some yard in a position of total ignorance, I can't even see it for god's sake. £3000 to take the axle and suspension off.